Kapawi Ecolodge: A pioneer in community eco-tourism & transformative adventure

Exploring the Amazon with our tour guide, Musach

Concept

Situated in a remote region of the Amazon Rainforest, called the Pastaza Province, is a place built by the indigenous Achuar peoples’ dreams, a collective drive to protect the rainforest, and a thirst for education. The Kapawi Ecolodge and Reserve is not just an accommodation on the outskirts of the jungle that claims to be “green”, it is a product of the Achuar peoples’ visions and perseverance to protect the land they love. The project for the lodge began in 1993 and through a partnership with the Pachamama Alliance, a tourism enterprise specializing in community eco-tourism was built.

The idea of the lodge is that through tourism, the Achuar people can fulfill their visions of preserving their land and their culture & traditions while also creating economic and educational opportunities for its people. Upon learning about the project a few months ago, I was fascinated with the concept and knew it was a place I’d have to experience for myself. It did not disappoint.

Experience

Getting to Kapawi Ecolodge requires a three-hour drive from Ecuador’s capital of Quito to the town of Shell (yes, it’s named by the oil company), a 50-minute flight from Shell to the small landing strip in the Kusutkau community in the Amazon, and a 20-minute canoe trip to the lodge. Man, is it worth it!

View from the airplane from Shell to the Amazon

Upon arriving to the lodge, I was greeted by a translator, Ricardo, and the Achuar staff which included an Achuar tour guide named Musach (also known as Johnny by visitors) and one of the three Achuar managers, Louis. They introduced themselves, warmly welcomed me, and gave me a tour of the lodge. I felt a sense of gratitude come over me as I experienced their kindness and hospitality, and immediately was calmed by the peaceful sounds of the rainforest surrounding me. I was directed to my bungalow which was spacious and clean, yet simple. It had tile floors in the bathroom and a balcony with a hammock, adding a bit of luxury to the experience. There was plenty to do around the lodge to keep me busy if I chose — a yoga space that also was great for birdwatching, a book shelf, a self-guided trail, kayaks, etc. — but it is also a place that invites you to simply “be”. Just being was something I hadn’t had in a while so I totally indulged in it, relaxing during my free time and happily avoiding my cell phone since there wasn’t WiFi in my bungalow anyway.

Louis, manager at Kapawi, and our translator, Ricardo

Activities

Throughout my three days at the lodge, Musach and Ricardo organized and led various activities for myself and another couple visiting. We kayaked the first afternoon, spotting beautiful birds, monkeys, and even a dolphin (yes, the Amazon has those!). It was lovely to spend some time on the water, listening to the sounds of the rainforest without the sound pollution of a canoe motor. We also stopped at the mouth of the river, where there is an island of mud to walk around on. It was nice to have a bit of “play time” and just enjoy the feeling of the mud, the sensation of sinking into the Earth, and laughing at each other’s clumsy movements.

Mud on the island after the sun beats on it

On the second day, we got up early to take a ride to an area of the river where the parrots are active in the morning. We watched dozens of parrots flying from tree to tree, and enjoyed the sight of their beautiful colors. Although we weren’t successful with any good pictures, the sight of them was enough.

Later, we took another canoe trip to another area of the Amazon, about two hours away. We got deep into the jungle, experiencing the rich biodiversity and foliage. Admitedly, it was a long time to be in the canoe but the amazing lunch that was prepared and taken with us was a perfect break, and what a setting for lunch — in a canoe in the Amazon.

Culture & Ceremony

The third day was full of culture and tradition. We started at 4:30am with the Wayusa ceremony, practiced by Achuar people still today, which insisted of drinking the herbal Wayusa tea until you’re so full, you purge. The experience felt a bit unpleasant up until after the purging part, since purging is something I typically try to avoid. However, with this being a sacred ceremony to Achuars, I had to try it. The idea behind the ceremony is to cleanse the system and purge negative energies. After purging, it is custom to sit around the fire and talk through dreams. The Achuars are incredibly connected to their dreams and are able to interpret them in a way that many Westerners do not understand. It was fascinating to hear the interpretations of each of our dreams, and how they can be used for protection and positive change. As it turns out, Achuars are known to use interpretations of negative dreams to make changes and re-direct the future — something that has helped them to survive all these years in the jungle and sustain their culture while doing it.

Children in Suwa display handicrafts they made for visitors to buy

In the afternoon, I had the honor of visiting one of the Achuar communities Kapawi Ecolodge works closely with, called Suwa. Visiting this community was incredibly eye-opening as it was a peek into a completely different way of life. Although I’ve visited remote communities before, this one struck me as one of the most culturally preserved I’d ever seen. Drinking the traditional chicha drink and speaking with Suwa members about their life and wishes, I remembered how important it is for people to decide their own fate. For example, in my conversation with a family leader, David, I learned not everyone in the community has interest in working at the Kapawi Ecolodge or at all. David, for example, would rather spend time in the community with his family and focus on gardening/hunting. His wishes are quite the contrast to some of the other Achuar people like his father who works at the lodge and Musach, who are looking for opportunities to earn money or move away to learn new skills/trades. Just like in the Western world, not everyone is looking for the opportunity for a new life — but it is important that those who are, have the ability to pursue that wish. After all, it takes us all.

To finish the day and the trip’s activities, we hiked a sacred trail in the forest to the holy Kapuk tree (a massive and awe-inspiring tree that grows in the rainforest) to conduct the Achuar Tobacco ceremony. I wasn’t entirely sure what this would consist of, but it turned out snorting Tobacco was the main event. Musach showed us how to go about doing this, enouraged us to admire the beauty of Kapuk tree, and shared with us the importance of the tree to the Achuar people. Their spiritual power, Arutam, is believed to live in the tree, and around the world. Messages of peace and love were shared to inspire spreading the knowledge of Arutam and love for others into the world. It was a touching and beautiful ceremony, where tears were shed and bonds were formed. I realized from this experience how pure and powerful the traditions of the Achuar people are, and how humans around the world could benefit from their practices.

Food & Sustainability

When we weren’t busy exploring the Amazon Rainforest or surrounding communities, we were eating incredible multiple-course meals prepared with fresh fruits, fish, meats and vegetables. We had three meals each day at set times, perfectly prepared and thoughtfully presented. After noticing the amazing service we were experiencing from the Achuar kitchen staff, we learned they were trained by a company in San Francisco, USA on hospitality. That extra effort in education made an indescribable impact on guests and was something that seemed to strike all of us.

The food prepared at the ecolodge is all organic, some being grown by the local Achuar communities, and some sourced by outside communities. The lodge also proudly displays a set of solar panels outside of the dining space, where all electricity for the lodge comes from.

Reflection

While I originally went to Kapawi Ecolodge to study its impact on the Achuar community and Amazon Rainforest environment, I realized during my time there it is doing so much more than that. This lodge is providing a space for indigenous communities to share spiritual wisdom and the beauty of nature with Westerners and in return, for the Achuars to learn about new skills and opportunities from Westerners. This place breeds education and inspires people, Achuar and visitors alike, to open their minds to the possibilities of the world. By doing this, it supports transformation of human beings — giving them new ideas, lessons and experiences. It allows the time and space to look inside ourselves and realize what is important by connecting with others, trying out ancient traditions, and appreciating pachamama (Mother Earth). My hope is that more people in the world become interested in and able to participate in experiences like these — not because it is vacation from reality, but because it connects you to what is most real of all.